For gold medal-winning chef Gilbert Sambatier, the future looks bright.
Last year, the owners of Antoine on the Right Bank — where Sambatier earned a Michelin star for his inventive seafood dishes — decided to sell the decade-old establishment, which has dined everyone from French politicians to tennis star Serena Williams, as a string of coronavirus lockdowns and restrictions put the hospitality industry under financial strain.
But on an April afternoon, Mr. Sambatier sounded confident about the state of Paris’s restaurant scene and about his latest project, the chic Left Bank brasserie Les Parisiens.
“Everyone is eager to discover the newest place,” he said. “Paris is doing well. People are starting to go out. I’m optimistic.”
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“It’s going to be a fun year,” he said.
Sentiments like these have become more common in Paris in recent days. Masks have been removed (except in hospitals and nursing homes), and vaccination certificates are no longer required in restaurants, bars, museums, music venues and public transportation. (Paris Tourism and Convention Promotion Boardwebsite) Crowded in the weekend crowds in the Marais or Saint-Germain-des-Prés districts, you’d almost think it was 2019.
The 19th-century Samaritaine, a classic Belle Époque department store on the banks of the Seine, closed in 2005 due to structural problems and sat largely vacant for the next 16 years.
The 19th-century Samaritaine, a classic Belle Époque department store on the banks of the Seine, closed in 2005 due to structural problems and sat largely vacant for the next 16 years. Joann Pai for The New York Times
A new retail and art destination
The most anticipated project in Paris isSamaritaineThe rebirth of this classic Belle Époque department store on the banks of the Seine is in the works. Owned by the international luxury goods group LVMH (whose CEO Bernard Arnault is France’s richest man), the 19th-century landmark closed in 2005 due to structural problems and sat largely unused for the next 16 years.
The multi-building, multi-floor renovation plan announced in June last year will turn this place into a consumption palace decorated with Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles. There are more than a dozen restaurants, a five-star hotel (the price of a double room in May is 1,450 euros, about 10,000 yuan), a spa, a perfume studio, a VIP lounge and dozens of shops selling about 700 brands of goods. If it seems a bit difficult to explore all this by yourself, you can consider the 90-minute guided tour service (15 euros).
Not to be outdone, François Pinault, the second-richest man on the French list, opened his own definitive showroom in a famous old building last year. Pinault has installed his new museum in the centuries-old circular building that once housed the Paris Stock Exchange. The museum, called the Bourse-Pinault Collection (admission 14 euros), was designed by Japanese architect Tadao Ando and displays works from Pinault’s vast contemporary art collection, including paintings by Sigmar Polke, lamps by Dan Flavin and sculptures by Urs Fischer.
The circular Bourse-Pinault Collection houses François Pinault's vast collection of contemporary art.
The circular Bourse-Pinault Collection houses François Pinault’s vast collection of contemporary art. Joann Pai for The New York Times
Fashion mogul Agnès Bey chose a different approach, choosing a white modern building in the unfashionable 13th arrondissement of Paris to display her extensive art collection, which includes photographs by Man Ray and subway-style graffiti by Futura.La FabThe space (tickets 7 euros) is currently hosting the exhibition “Childhood in the Aniasbe Collection” (until June 30), which examines childhood through paintings, drawings, photographs, sculptures and installations.
Favorites of the past, both physical and virtual
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There are two major museums in Paris – the Louvre Museum (ticket price 17 euros) andMusee d’Orsay(Tickets 14 euros) – basically all open.
Recent special exhibitions include “Saint Laurent at the Louvre,” showcasing some of the French fashion designer’s finest work in the former royal palace (until September 19), and “Pharaohs of Two Lands” (until July 25), devoted to the eighth-century BC Nubian-Egyptian kings of the Pianki Empire. Across the Seine at the Musée d’Orsay, “Gaudí” (until July 17) surveys the Spanish architect’s wide-ranging output through art, furniture and more.
Although Notre Dame de ParisA fire in 2019Although the building is still closed for reconstruction, a virtual reality recreation of the La Défense district offers another chance to visit the iconic medieval Gothic building.Notre Dame of Eternity》 (tickets from 20.99 euros)immersing visitors in a full-scale digital rendering of the cathedral from the Middle Ages to the present day.
View of the Eiffel Tower from the
View of the Eiffel Tower from the “Shadow” restaurant. Joann Pai for The New York Times
Haute cuisine and street food
In terms of dining, the most high-end new experience may come from the Branly Riverside-The “shadow“Restaurant (Les Ombres),France’s biggest architects and most famous restaurateurs come together here. Designed by Jean Nouvel and now run by Alain Ducasse’s team, the space lets in ever-changing natural light through its avant-garde glass roof. The restaurant serves a 110-euro dinner menu of French classics (including white asparagus, foie gras and duck breast). But the highlight is the view of the Eiffel Tower.
Ducasse and other Parisian food stars have also been busy openingNew restaurants that try to elevate street food, fast food and desserts. For a comprehensive and affordable taste of Parisian cuisine, try Yannick Allegro’s fine-dining restaurant “Allegro & Sons Hamburg” (Burger Père et Fils par Alléno) and the new “Michelle’s Sandwich Shop“(Croq’Michel) with a substantial ham and cheese hot sandwich (8.50 euros). For dessert, you can go to Ducasse’s first ice cream shop, “Alain Ducasse ice cream” (La Glace Alain Ducasse) for smoothies and other desserts (6.50 euros), and the new neighborhood shop from Septime chef Bertrand GrébauttapestryFreshly baked profiteroles from the Tapisserie (2 euros).
The Paradise Hotel is equipped with video screens, high-tech projectors and a vast movie collection in its 36 rooms.
The Paradise Hotel is equipped with video screens, high-tech projectors and a vast movie collection in its 36 rooms. Joann Pai for The New York Times
Luxury hotels and cinematic accommodations
There are also some big things brewing on the accommodation front, and it’s not just limited to the opening of a new 32-story, 957-room mega-hotelPullman Montparnasse(JuneThe price per night for a double room is about 280 euros), or the 76-room 4-star Hilton Garden Inn on fashionable Avenue George V.BulgarihotelThe penthouse suite (1700 euros).
Paradise HotelFrom €170) is owned by the MK2 cinema chain and was inspired by local creatives including street artist JR, musician and director Woodkid and cafe developer Mark Grossman. Located next to the Place de la Nation, the hotel has 36 rooms, all equipped with video screens, high-tech projectors and a vast film collection. A rooftop bar and private karaoke rooms provide additional entertainment.
The Persil restaurant in Bastille offers pescatarian cuisine with an African influence.
The Persil restaurant in Bastille offers pescatarian cuisine with an African influence. Joann Pai for The New York Times
Vegan options include a red onion dish stuffed with quinoa, shallots, peppers, sunflower seeds and fresh thyme.
Vegan options include a red onion dish stuffed with quinoa, shallots, peppers, sunflower seeds and fresh thyme. Joann Pai for The New York Times
Little Paris: independent, intimate and international
To find Paris’s newest little gem, follow the aroma of roasted vegetables and the accents of foreign chefs. At Bastille, you might find yourself sittingPersilThe candlelit table is filled with African-style pescatarian cuisine. Chef Kumpi Lowe’s menu might include Mikaté, shredded codfish croquettes with purple fruit puree from the Congo,22€), and a delicious sweet potato gratin with truffle butter, cheddar and tofu (19€).
Or you may be near Pigalle.StéréoA dark corner of the bar.Strictly vegan, but Bangladeshi chef Swaran Joshi’s meatless side dishes – roasted carrots with coconut curry (10 euros); roasted pumpkin with honey, tahini, hazelnuts and pomegranate seeds (10 euros) – will please even carnivores.
Bar Stéréo near Pigalle.
Bar Stéréo near Pigalle. Joann Pai for The New York Times
Dishes at Stéréo Bar by Bangladeshi chef Swaran Joshi include roasted carrots in coconut curry (pictured) and grouper ceviche with beet cream.
Dishes at Stéréo Bar by Bangladeshi chef Swaran Joshi include roasted carrots in coconut curry (pictured) and grouper ceviche with beet cream. Joann Pai for The New York Times
If you can’t afford a round-the-world ticket, you can stay in the 31-roomBabelBook a colorful, ethnic-themed room at this Belleville hotel, whose lobby and restaurant are like a cross between a Rajasthani tented camp and a Moroccan tea room (about $1,000 a night in June).After a meal of Middle Eastern hummus (6 euros), Aleppo terrine (lamb, dried apricots and spices; 12 euros) and Croatian wine, you might ask yourself: Will I earn frequent flyer miles for this?
“The Tower of Babel brought together all the nations of the world,” John Dione, the hotel’s manager, said on a recent afternoon. “That’s what we’re trying to do here.”
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